The Scented Djinn's all natural perfumes: Jameel & Sahar

It was uncharacteristically muggy yesterday, not something we experience with frequency in the Northwest, but it was downright sultry in the late afternoon hours. A beautifully crafted citrus fragrance is just what I needed, and this particular afternoon called for a blend of neroli and petitgrain, with a smidge of tropical florals.

Justine Crane, the perfumer at The Scented Djinn has created such a fragrance in her newest release, Jameel. Jameel opens undeniably with petitgrain which wafts with such freshness, that you can hear the twigs snapping off the trees and the leaves crushing as you pull them off the orange. Jameel is green, alive and very refreshing on a hot day. Neroli, which is the essential oil obtained from orange blossoms, gives balance to Jameel’s petitgrain beginning providing a feminine and beachy air.

Gardenia and resins (oudh and labdanum) give Jameel a touch of complexity, but this is not to be mistaken for a heady perfume nor an incensey one. It is sublimely a cirtusy floral, buttressed by notes that enhance and deepen its glimmering citrus nature.

Sahar is another fine offering from The Scented Djinn’s all natural line up. I fell for it immediately as I love woody floral perfumes and Sahar is a beautiful example of this genre. As are listed at Justine’s etsy shop, the floral notes include jasmine and champaka and the woods are Australian sandalwood and Himalayan cedar. While all of these provide an ample foundation for Sahar, the allure lies in its smooth sweetness.

Sahar’s introduction is coated in a boozy honeyed quality that quickly evolves into buttered honey. This delicate sweetness permeates Sahar as benzoin adds vanilla softness to the golden nectar.

While tuberose is not listed in the notes, I was convinced I was smelling its beauty within Sahar. I wrote Justine to ask what other florals make this perfume so compelling. She explained that the “green notes” (as mentioned on etsy) is actually a complex accord with many essences. I won’t give away too much, but tuberose, orris, rose, and galbanum are all in this “green notes” gem and lucky for me that I love tuberose because it fully blossomed on my skin.

Sahar is a fragrance that I will have in my collection at all times. It’s pretty, yet complicated. Approachable, but incredibly interesting. Sahar is now on my highly recommended list of woody floral fragrances, right alongside Ayala Moriel’s Hanami and Roxana Villa’s Lyra. As with these perfumes, Sahar feels at home on my skin.


Justine is teaching a year-long natural perfumery course which begins May 24th, but is currently full. A new session will begin some time in September with 10 spaces available. The web address for the course site is www.naturalperfumeacademy.com, visit the site and their FAQ page for more information.


Jameel and Sahar are available at The Scented Djinn etsy shop. Both are $27 for a 5ml bottle.

Posted by~Trish

Disclosure: Samples of both fragrances were provided by The Scented Djinn. The opinons in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.

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The Scented Djinn Giveaway Winner is….

Khamsa Winner

 

Holly! Congratulations on winning the bottle of Khamsa. I will get this out to you ASAP.


So I have returned from my whirlwind trip to New York which included the 50th anniversary party for my in-laws and a couple of sniffing extravaganzas to NYC. Reports of my fragrant discoveries will soon follow.


posted by ~Trish

“Screaming Banshees” A print of the original acrylic painting by Emily Balivet, 2005 on esty.

 


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The Scented Djinn: Reviews and Giveaway

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A djinn is a supernatural creature, a genie in Arabic folklore, that can either do good or evil in the human world. Justine Crane, the woman behind The Scented Djinn, has thankfully decided to use her creative powers for the good of scenting us humans. The fragrances of The Scented Djinn are all natural and several of the ingredients have been handcrafted by Justine herself. When she’s not busy overseeing her fragrant lair, Justine can be found teaching classes, writing her blog Oh True Apothecary!, or tending to the business side of things, which she has been doing since 1996.

Oshiba Eau de Parfum

Oshiba began with a take-charge labdanum and frankincense blend, which created a dark and leathery mood that was familiar yet compelling. Think of a similar atmosphere to Donna Karan’s Black Cashmere, but less wood and more pelt. On The Scented Djinn website, labdanum is mentioned as a basenote, but to my nose, the top was all about this rich and resinous essence. The fragrance meandered effortlessly through its labdanum intensity towards a delicate powdery lavender mélange. Oshiba’s final destination was a soft vanilla, with remnants of a hushed labdanum. Earthy, soil stained sweetness of benzoin kept this finespun drydown grounded and close to the skin. The weather here has been schizophrenic to say the least. A couple of weeks ago it was in the low 100′s but when I wore Oshiba it was 30 degrees lower with a hint of autumn in the air. What a perfect scent to summon crisp air and cooler evenings.


Ianthe Eau de Toilette

When I read Ianthe’s list of notes; violet leaf, rose de mai, ambrette and orris, my gut told me this would be my favorite of Justine’s creations. Indeed, I was correct. She calls it a “violet nymph” and by golly this is an accurate description as I have fallen in love with this beguiling creature. She’s sweet but not too sweet. Ianthe has her hands in the soil, digging for those ambrette seeds, so the fragrance is well-grounded and does not begin delicately. The rose was not apparent to my nose, and the orris seemed only to illicit more of the violet tones of Ianthe, becoming more honeyed and delicious rather than heavy, soapy or woody. And then, my skin was left with a gauzy haze of violet pastilles that was more like a memory rather than a confection in my mouth. A true pleasure for violet perfume lovers, and presented in a darling 10ml corked bottle.


Khamsa Eau Fraiche

Justine’s Khamsa Eau Fraiche is made with cilantro, citrus, patchouli and frankincense. In fact, the frankincense and lemon hydrosols were created by Justine, as well as the fresh lemon essential oil, all used in the fragrance. I loved the opening of Khamsa. The cilantro/citrus kickoff was unique, enjoyable and refreshing. It even allowed for an interesting evolution into the warmth of the next phase; patchouli and frankincense. But then the drydown, on my skin, was exclusively patchouli. If you’ve read any of my reviews, you know I am not a big fan of the patchouli. I wish I were, because Khamsa has one of the most fascinating fragrance openers I’ve experienced in a while and I am loath to have the lovely bottle Justine so generously sent me go to waste. So all of you patchouli lovers, step forth and stake your claim!


I’m doing a giveaway for this full-sized bottle (100 mls) of Khamsa Eau Fraiche. Just leave a comment and you’ll be entered. You have until August 26th 10pm Pacific to enter. Good Luck! The winner has been chosen.

I won’t be blogging until after August 26th, as I am heading to New York for a late summer vacation. I’ve got a couple NYC sniffing excursions planned and you can be sure that a full report will be posted as soon as I get it in order!


Posted by ~Trish

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